Bulgari Sotirio Bulgari Retrograde Date Review

It's time for BVLGARI watches to get a little more sophisticated, but in a good way!

Celebrating BVLGARI's 125th birthday, the Sotirio BVLGARI collection takes the opportunity to showcase a few stylish watchmaking skills they've learned along the way. Interestingly, they only started their watchmaking journey in 1980.

Bulgari Sotirio Bulgari Retrograde Date Review

One of the first things that makes this watch stand out is its distinctive grooved and flared dial design, with lines radiating outwards from the 6 position. This design gives the impression of being inspired by a picturesque sunrise. At the same time, this dial pattern draws your eyes downwards as you follow the beam to its source; to the retrograde date complication located just above the 6 position.

This complication displays the date in a different way than most watches; While watches with a date window use a round disk in the mechanism, the situation is different here. The retrograde date complication uses an arc of regular numbers from 1 to 31 for each day of the month. The small, skeletal-style hand moves from one end of the arc to the other. Then, at the end of each month, the needle jumps back to the position of the number 1.

While multi-surface processed, polished and embossed hour markers are used for the hours from 1 to 11, a bold Roman numeral 'XII' is preferred for the 12 position. A finely engraved seconds/minute track can be seen between these hour markers; This mark is located on a chapter ring with ribbed texture extending along the flange on the outer edge of the dial.

Most watches in the core range have the standard central hour, minute and seconds hands and not much else, with the exception of the various Chronograph models. Some of Bulgari's other fascinating watch models with interesting complications are the GranLusso and GranSport, which also feature a retrograde complication and were designed together by both BVLGARI and Maserati.

It would also be unfair not to mention various high-complication watches, such as the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon watches, which have the thinnest turbion complication known to mankind at only 1.95 mm thick. As you can see, BVLGARI is taking its watchmaking industry forward in a huge way. Many watch manufacturers, even famous ones, do not use such high complications.

To stay focused, let's take the Sotirio Bulgari Retrograde Date, which, despite all its other achievements, deserves to be reviewed on its own. This is a classic watch with a sporty touch. The retrograde date gives it the impression of a speedometer, and thanks to its highly polished case and brushed sidework, it looks perfect for a sophisticate with a little wildness inside.

The ears (the horn-like part of the case that connects to the strap, seen in the image above) have a unique design. They open outward, creating the illusion of a large Roman numeral 'X'. These ears are not actually part of the case itself; They fit into grooves machined into the case. Featuring multi-surface and polished workmanship, these ears open outwards while bending downwards at a slight angle. The part of the lugs that connects to the watch band with visible screws goes slightly below the case back; This protects the clear sapphire glass and keeps the glass slightly elevated when you place the watch face up on a flat surface, such as a table.

The case itself is also striking with its combination of polished craftsmanship. The side of the case has a brushed finish, while the winding crown has a polished surface and an embossed Sotirio Bulgari emblem. The watch is equipped with a crocodile leather strap and a classic pin buckle with the company logo engraved on it. The technical diagram and review images clearly show how the watch is constructed. While this model (Model No: 101707 sb42wsldr) stands out with its white dial, there is also another version in the collection with a black dial that is at least as impressive.

The Sotirio Bulgari collection offers an in-depth look at the mechanism that moves this watch and how carefully the dial is constructed.

This watch is powered by the Swiss-made BVLGARI Caliber B89 automatic movement, which was developed based on the self-winding ébauche known as ETA 2892-A2. It is beautifully finished in-house and equipped with an in-house retrograde module designed and engineered by Bulgari. Hopefully this is just the first of many such horological complications that BVLGARI plans to create in the future. It operates at 28,800 VpH, contains 21 jewels, and has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours in a single full winding. Even the packaging and box look delicious.

BVLGARI has become an interesting luxury watch brand that is enjoyable to watch the evolution of its craft. This is definitely what I would consider a bold watch design; bold and beautiful to say the least. You can see the passion and spirit of Sotirio Bulgari, the founder of BVLGARI and who gave his name to the watch, in this collection. The collection also pays tribute to the company's long history in high-end fashion, jewelery and watchmaking.