Detailed review: VS Factory Omega Seamaster 300 replica 8800 movement, double T shock absorber and differences from the original

Comprehensive comparative analysis of Factory Omega Seamaster 300 Replica 8800 Movement Double T Shock Em models with Detailed Review: Case finishes, movement precision, dial details and production tolerances are examined in detail with Saat Detective expertise standards.

Below is the original Seamaster 300, which is worn and old. This watch has been disassembled countless times by factories to remove moulds, and the ceramic bezel is not installed properly; Let's manage it.

Dial and Hand Details

There is not much to say on the front dial surface. Processes such as deburring the hour and minute hands are at industrial standards; No matter which brand produces it, the difference in quality is not too big, and there are almost no visible defects. In addition, the durability of the original dial surface does not cause primitive defects such as discoloration or cracking within 15 years; Material selection and production are carried out according to advanced standards.

Replica Seamaster 300M gray model; I won't be too busy taking photos. Today's dial surface technology is actually quite mature; At least there is no need to find faults in the copy in this price segment anymore.

Case and Body Workmanship

Since the ceramic bezel of the original was glued very tightly, it was inevitable that the ceramic bezel would be damaged when I tried to remove it. Since the Seamaster 300 is an entry-level model, there is nothing outstanding about the ceramic bezel craftsmanship: there is no recessed filling, no white gold layer like in the Submariner. So we can say that it is close to an ordinary Longines Conquest workmanship. It's not because Omega can't do better workmanship, it's because of the product's positioning issue; The price of around thirty thousand is also quite understandable. The image below is the ceramic bezel mouth of the original:

The image below is the ceramic bezel mouth of the replica. There's really no technical content to this Seamaster ceramic bezel mount, no aspect to work on; Frankly, I can't see a significant difference.

Movement and Caliber Performance

We are getting ready to enter the crucial part of the article: we will open the case back and look at the movement. The mold of the original watch is very careful; It considers not only user experience but also maintenance-repair difficulty and time cost. In short, the hand feeling is light when turning the case back, and it definitely does not get caught in the teeth. If you think about the difference between going smoothly and getting stuck when tightening the screw, you will understand; You can notice it even with your eyes closed. And this isn't just something Omega does particularly well; Any original brand that can be named can do this. This is high standard production workmanship. It is inevitable that the hand feeling will be slightly worse in fake watches.

After opening it, we see the entire mechanism. This image is magnified approximately 3 times what we normally see. Real-replica comparisons of many factories are also made from this distance. From where? Because you can only show the great advantage of a replica watch from this distance. If magnification was 20 times, the defects would also grow infinitely; If we live under a microscope, replica watches, marriage and love are all flaws. So, if you are going to examine a fake watch with a magnification of tens of times or with a lens, I hope such people stay away from fake watches.

Swiss watches have many standards. For example, even in a screw in the image below, hardness is taken into account; Things such as how long it takes for the screw to fatigue from the bearing load and its thickness are strictly controlled. A set of screws guarantees that the threads will not break for ten years and the number of times the screw can be tightened and loosened. Is the cost of this screw high? Not. This is just called detail.

Where the arrow points is the cover that compresses the rotor; It requires Omega's special tool to open it. Notice that this area is the same on the Seamaster 300/600, indicating that the tool is also common. Even though the mechanism is for fixing purposes, the details are still admirable, there are no burrs.

This is Omega's double T shock absorber. As the name suggests, two metal T letters press against a shock absorber. Some watch friends also call it an ICBC shock absorber (because it looks like the bank's logo). The entire clock mechanism, including the screws, is made of non-ferrous material.

Unguided mainspring sign. For the mainspring without a guide, you can refer to the previous article "What is a mainspring without a guide?" The unguided mainspring has a single connecting leg at this point.

This structure changes the rotation radius of the balance wheel by adjusting the in-out movement of the screws placed at equal intervals on the balance wheel (where the arrow points in the image below) or the position of the rotatable weights, and thus aims to change the oscillation period. The feature of the unguided mainspring structure is that the speed adjustment needle is removed and the moment of inertia of the balance wheel is transformed into an adjustable structure, that is, a structure whose turning radius can be changed. The end result of these two structures is to change the oscillation period by changing the rotation radius of the balance wheel, thus being able to adjust the traveling speed of the mechanical watch. This type of guideless mainspring used to be seen in high-end movements, but now it is slowly making its way to entry-level self-made movements. This adjustment method is quite noticeable; Precision is maintained even after years of operation, it does not require regular error adjustment like traditional guided mainspring mechanisms.

In 2008, Omega began using the Si14 silicon mainspring (arrowed below) and applied this to subsequent co-axial movements such as the 8601/8611 with instantaneous jump annual calendar function. This groundbreaking invention gave the watch better precision and lasting stability. The manufacturing process of the silicone mainspring ensures that all mainsprings have the same perfect geometric structure. Silicone is a non-magnetic material; It has excellent impact resistance and elasticity coefficient. The entire watch achieves a high magnetic shielding of 15,000 gauss, completely eliminating the regular demagnetization process in older mechanical watches.

The middle of the ruby on the bridge is the bearing; It transfers and lubricates the rotation of the gears of the clock. The arrow shows two small transmission gears. Rounded corner processing is very good; Whether in terms of durability or smoothness, it is sufficient to ensure stable operation of this mechanism for more than ten years. He thinks that the embroidery issue that many people constantly talk about is whether the bridge looks beautiful or ugly; This is completely wrong.

Let me evaluate Omega with my personal opinion: for around thirty thousand, you can buy a watch that can easily compete with models under 200 thousand in terms of daily deviation of 3 seconds, high magnetic protection, 300M diving, and movement durability. I can say that Omega is truly full of sincerity. The 8800 series is a stripped-down version of the 8900; No calendar quick skip. In fact, I think it was created by adding a few new technologies to the ETA2892 base. The rotor rotation noise of the movement is a bit loud (almost the same as the 2892), the ceramic bezel and dial surface are featureless; but when considered together with its price and brand positioning, XXX's price-performance is truly great. So much so that there are even requests for XXX amount of money for the Seamaster 300. The money issue is actually something Omega has never dealt with, but this 300 was very, very popular at one time!

Now let's look at the back glass of the fake watch. At several times magnification the overall image is fine; For a non-professional, he is already very successful.

The bridge has definitely been rebuilt, and the rubies have also been made to their original appearance; No streaming missions, just for you to watch. There will be no such things as bearing transfer inside.

This double-T shock absorber trim is quite well made; Some small factories leave this section with very heavy burrs.

The basic mechanism of the fake watch is the common mechanisms we know: 2824, 2892 etc. Since such mechanisms are the basics developed five or sixty years ago, they naturally do not have functions such as magnetic protection and unguided mainspring. The black balance wheel here is just painted; The mainspring is also a traditional mainspring, and there will be no weight or anything like that.

The real shock absorber of this mechanism is below; The fake shock absorber hides the real thing. The actual transmission parts are all under this bridge. Since the Seamaster 300 is a diving model, the case thickness is sufficient to accommodate two bridge sets, so this process is very easy to do.

The work of the replica factory below. There is not much left to criticize in the details; Even the hand feel of the fine adjustment buckle is made quite close.

Let's sum up: This article is not to tell you how amazing the craftsmanship of the original Seamaster 300 is; To explain where the cost of the Seamaster 300 was spent, what makes this movement stand out and some of the features of the original watches. So that you can make a more rational judgment when buying a replica after learning the watch information in depth. Don't pretend to be an expert with words like "it's fake at first glance" and judge something XXX-odd by looking down on it. Most of the time, people with rich watch knowledge are more tolerant of replicas, while those without relevant knowledge are more critical of replicas; This is exactly the sick problem of users who have bought replicas in recent years. This is not to describe how poorly made the fake watch is; In my eyes, this Seamaster 300 is already very well made. Many people ask me how I can tell if a watch is real or fake. Actually, with experience, don't you think we or some professionals don't understand? I wish those who constantly want to spend like XXX hundred thousand but cannot distinguish between real and fake when they check, read a few more books, gain a little more knowledge, and choose a replica watch objectively. Really realize that the purpose of buying a fake watch is essentially to show off; Don't try to challenge the expertise of professionals knowing you're buying a fake. If you ask me "why can't many places make fake watches a little better", I'll ask you too: Would you be willing to buy a XXX fake Seamaster 300? If you are not satisfied, then you should ask yourself why the money in your pocket is not enough to compensate for the various shortcomings of the fake watch. I am in favor of expecting an improvement from fake within a reasonable cost range; With its 100% original standard, it's not about expecting something a tenth, tenth, or one hundredth the price to apply the same standard.
I hope this article is useful to you. I will share more detailed disassembly, real shot review and real-replica comparison in the coming days.